As I read the Tucson Weekly review of God's Middle Finger: Into the Lawless Heart of the Sierra Madre
, I knew this was one book that was going straight to the top of my reading queue. And, wow, it does not disappoint. I've had a fascination with the Sierra Madre for a number of years. This huge mountain range, which begins just south of the Arizona-Mexico border, is home to some of the roughest terrain on Earth... and some of the roughest people on Earth. Richard Grant tracks through it; despite many who warn him of the dangers, he's pulled like a magnet into the heart of darkness, and almost doesn't escape to tell the tale.
Along the way, the book is full of wild tales that he experienced first-hand and fascinating insights into the cultures of the region, and Mexico in general. A multi-day drunken Tarahumara Easter rite. Searches for lost gold and Apache descendants of Geronimo. Getting drunk and high with narcos and law officers alike (they are often actually the same people, an inextricable and ever-shifting mix of corruption). A gay wedding planner who reveals the secret sex lives of super-macho gangsta-narcos. A nice recount of Tarahumara ultramarathon exploits here in the U.S. The lawlessness that has been a constant for centuries in this region, and continues unabated. The surreal character of everyday life, where nothing can be believed to happen for natural reasons, and the elusive character of history in such a region.
Somewhat oddly, this book was filed in the 'True Crime' section at Borders, though it really belongs in Travel/Adventure. It's a really fun read, and will leave an indelible impression. I supplemented it by doing Google Image Searches on the town names he travels through. You'll find a few good sets of photos by folks who traveled through on motorbikes (sounds like a fun way to do it, though no doubt just as dangerous).